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"Adventure is inconvenience properly perceived." Llewellyn Thomas
"Places to go, things to do, Porsches to pass..." 350Z showroom banner
"Think of it as a high-performance park bench with a mechanical beauty far
exceeding any external good looks." the author
350ZRť Track Day!
"Life is on the wire. Everything else is waiting." Kurt
Wallenda
On this page...
On the Track with the Z Car Club of Colorado
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Turning into the hairpin at Turn 1
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Twice now, I've had the good fortune to enter my roadster in ^Z
Car Club of Colorado (ZCCC) track days first in June, 2004 and again
that September. My reckless youth included a good number of motorcycle track days and even a
racing school at Laguna Seca, but these were my first four-wheel attacks on a
bona fide road course. To play it safe, I started in the least advanced driver class
(D) but moved up to Class C after one heat. Next time, I'll try my hand
at Class B. The club's June, 2005 track day won't come a day too soon.
For a $50-85 entry fee depending on membership, ZCCC track days include at
least four 20-minute heats at 2nd Creek Raceway near Denver International
Airport, usually with 60-90 minutes of car talk and mandatory corner work in
between. All marques are welcome, but beware: The tight 9-turn, 1.7-mile course
plays to all the 350Z's long suits cornering, torque and braking.
Turns 7-9 are 3D enough to keep things interesting.
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Jim []'s 1971 240Z at the mandatory pre-track safety
inspection
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Superb organization and
strictly enforced passing rules make for an enviable safety record some
bruised egos, but no
significant injuries in the 14 years ZCCC has been holding track days. Pre-track
safety inspections and Snell-approved helmets are mandatory. Laps are purposely
untimed to keep competitive juices in check, insurance costs down and track fees
affordable. When the green flag falls, you're basically driving against yourself
while sharing the track safely with others trying to do the same.
Numberwise, 300ZX twin turbos and a host of fine older Zs still dominate the
ZCCC, but the 350s are making headway. Of the 40-50 cars entered on our last 2
track days, half a dozen or so were 350Zs, mostly
stock, and they generally did very, very well. My roadster held up its end with no mods other than
engine grounding and tires.
Natural Habitat
Observing and driving the 350Z in its natural habitat the track
reveals a core element of the car's nature that responsible driving on public roads can
only suggest. Its ability to double as a daily driver is all the more admirable
once you've seen it run free.
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Jim []'s 1971 240Z nearing the Turn 1 apex
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The 350Z is hands down the best handling of
the six Z cars I've owned. As the owner of
a roadster manufactured in July, 2003, I'm happy to have the original
suspension. The "Euro-style" ride introduced in October, 2003 is
a good bit tamer.
After 30 years, those 240Zs are still
damn fast. The 350Z has a proud heritage indeed.
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Turning into the hairpin at Turn 1
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Cornering and torque are impressive right out of the
box for coupes and roadsters alike. If the latter's rigidity suffers for
lack of a hard top, I couldn't tell. None of the older Zs in my driving class
(C) could keep up on the twisty 2nd Creek course, but a well-driven 1996 Porche Carrera was
always slightly faster. The ZR stayed well ahead of all the Class C 300ZXTTs,
including some tricked out to well over 400 bhp, but a straighter track might
well have changed that. |
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David Muramoto powering out of Turn 1
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The stock 350Z
behaves very predictably (read "safely") around the limits of
adhesion. The onset of sliding is gradual enough to plan around, throttle
steering can be quite precise, and a slight understeer keeps the back end
under control most of the time, anyway. After a few laps, the
four-wheel drifts Turns 4 and 5 seemed to invite felt downright
comfy. |
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David Muramoto's Track coupe braking hard into
Turn 1
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The roadster sure could have used
more fade-resistant brakes on the track. My standard brakes went soft in the last laps of heat #2
on our first track day but somehow managed to hold up fairly well in later heats with faster times.
With DOT 4 brake fluid and aftermarket front pads on board for the next
track day, the roadster's brakes never faded again, but a ride in Dave
Muramoto's Brembo-equipped Track coupe (left) gave me a taste of just how
effective late braking can be. Note that my 20-minute heats averaged ~108 corners.
On a straighter track, the standard brakes might have been less an issue. |
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Michelin all-season
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Original-equipment Bridgestone Potenza
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Not surprisingly, the
original-equipment Bridgestone Potenzas
on other 350Zs excelled on these sunny 80° days, but experienced passengers (brave souls)
riding along with me on 2 heats were quite surprised to learn that my Michelin Pilot Sport A/S tires
were in fact all-seasons. |
Bottom line: The 350Z is a kick on the track. On a tight course like 2nd
Creek, its flat torque curve and cornering make it a formidable contender right out of the
box. Brakes have never been an issue off the track, but a brake upgrade is now high on my list for
my first major mod. Since the wife got a first-hand wide-eyed look at the standard brake limitations, she might even
go easy on the attendant doghouse time!
Help for Standard Brakes
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Reigning Rocky Mountain Division SCCA champ David Muramoto brakes
hard coming into the Turn 1 hairpin at 2nd Creek Raceway on a
September, 2004 track day sponsored by the ^Z
Car Club of Colorado. A ride with Dave in a later heat had me lusting
after the Brembos in his Track coupe. The roadsters's brakes pale
in comparison but are adequate for the track with minor modifications
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If you
plan to take your Z to the track often, the roadster may not be your best
choice for one simple reason the brakes. Counter-intuitive
though it may seem, what non-Brembo 350Zs need most to do well on the track are
more fade-resistant brakes. Yes, brakes. Standard power, torque and handling are
more than ample which is precisely why the standard brakes tend to fade
after several heats of the aggressive late braking fast laps require.
Don't worry you'll see the fades coming. When your
brakes begin to overheat, pedal response will soften noticeably due to fluid
cavitation, and stopping distances will lengthen progressively. You'll
generally have time to get off the track safely if you heed these warning signs
when they first appear.
Let's be clear now: The roadster's factory brakes are more than adequate for street use, spirited mountain
runs included. In fact, their one-shot 100-0 and 60-0
mph stopping distances are among the very best. What they lack, however,
is stamina. They're simply not designed to handle the
heat build-up that comes with lap after lap of aggressive late
braking. The standard rotors shed heat too slowly, the pads conduct too
much heat into the brake fluid, and the DOT 3-rated factory fluid is too
prone to cavitation for track use.
The beefier Brembo brakes on the Track (get it?) coupe would solve the
problem handily, but they're just not available on roadsters at least not
through 2005. Several companies, including Brembo, offer
big-brake upgrades for the 350Z, but they're totally unnecessary for Zs
driven solely on public roads. At $3,000 and up for all four wheels, they're
also pretty hard to justify for occasional track days. For starters, most brake
upgrades require 18" wheels to accommodate larger, faster-cooling rotors.
And that brings us to the most important track tip of all:
- Don't even think about playing the track safety card to
wangle an expensive upgrade out of a spouse not yet bitten by the track bug.
The guaranteed counter-solution will be much safer and much cheaper,
and your track days will go onto the endangered species list without further
ado.
A simple solution
So what's a casual track day enthusiast to do? Now that I've learned my
lesson, I keep my standard brakes fade-free on
the track with 2 simple measures costing well under $100:
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Flush out the DOT 3-rated factory brake fluid
and replace it with
higher-temperature DOT 4 fluid. Then flush your DOT 4 fluid twice a year to
minimize moisture build-up. Since some petroleum-based DOT 4 fluids are
hydrophilic (water-loving), synthetics are generally a safer bet. Even
for 350Zs that never see the track, I'd recommend a switch to DOT 4
fluid the next time the brakes need service.
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Replace the stock front pads, taking care not
to install overly aggressive pads that might chew up your rotors on the street.
I've had good luck with ^Hawk
HPS pads, but there are many other good options. The factory rear
pads are adequate.
Optional steel-braided
brake lines won't improve your stopping distances (for that, you'll
need bigger grabbers), but they will improve your pedal
response by speeding the delivery of peak hydraulic pressure to the
calipers.
Track Day Tips
Most of the tips below are from old track hands in the
Z Car
Club of Colorado; others came the hard way. The brake
tips are important enough to warrant their own section above.
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Waiting for the next heat
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Arrive
with as much gas in the tank and as much drinking fluid in the cooler as
you can
Count on burning up a lot of both. Missing a
heat for lack of fuel is an obvious flub. It's not so obvious that
fast driving is hard work. Without the luxury of a 5-point racing
harness, you'll find yourself bracing strenuously against strong braking
and cornering forces at each and every turn. (My left foot rest
eventually snapped off under such loads.) Add a stuffy helmet and proper
clothing, and you'll be sweating up a storm in no time. Intense
concentration and quick reflexes require good hydration. |
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Center cap dutifully removed on Carlos Tomayo's
1990 pristine 300ZX
2+2
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Remove
your wheel center caps before they do it for you
If a heat-expanded wheel spits one out on the
track, you'll be lucky to find it at all, much less in one piece.
Replacement caps run ~$30 a pop (pun intended) online and no doubt more
at your local dealer.
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Be good to your tires
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Take
care of your tires and they'll take care of you
At speed, four palm-size patches of rubber are all
that separate you and your car from a ballistic trajectory across the
track. Bring a tire pump and pressure
gauge. Check tire pressures before and after
the 1st heat and adjust accordingly. For most high-performance rubber, 40-45 psi is a good warm-tire starting
point.
The hard-core racers are usually easy to spot. Just
look for the stack of dedicated racing tires and wheels. That's nice if you can afford
it but hardly necessary for an occasional track day. Properly
inflated tires concentrate track wear on the edges of the treads. The
tread centers important for street driving are largely spared.
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On the track, grille + plate = overheating
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Keep
the air coming
If you've added an
aftermarket grille and your front plate hangs in front of
it like mine, temporarily remove the plate to restore proper air flow
through the radiator.
I've never had a problem with the grille and plate in place on the
street, but trust me, failure to remove the plate at the track can
result in serious engine overheating.
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The roadster's TCS turn-off switch
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Take
control
Do whatever it takes to remember to turn TCS/VDC off in the staging line.
Otherwise, count on them to butt in at the most inopportune time.
Consider a pre-race checklist if nothing else works.
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Repeat 1,000 times:
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Use all of the track on every turn.
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Brake, turn in and apex
late later than you'll probably think at first.
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Turn in with the desired exit gear already engaged.
To arrange the last item, you'll need to be able to execute smooth, accurate downshifts while braking
hard. Hone your heel-and-toe pedaling at traffic stops well before track day. |
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David Muramoto powering out of Turn 1
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Follow
the rubber
Use the Woodward and Bernstein approach: Notice where the rubber's
been building up on the track. Chances are, that's your line.
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SCCA regional champ David Muramoto and
passenger waiting at the starting line
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Learn
from the masters
Ask faster drivers if you can ride along to pick up
their lines,
braking points, gears, etc. Alternatively, ask them to ride along with you and give you pointers.
You're guaranteed to learn something valuable either way.
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Keep it
simple
At
speed, you'll probably find it hard to juggle all the details that
deserve your attention. Pare the required concentration down to a manageable
chunk by getting Turn 1
dialed in first braking, suspension setup, turn-in and apex points,
gear choice, etc. When you're reliably making good exits from
Turn 1,
start sorting out Turn 2 in earnest. When you've worked your away around the entire track,
start tweaking what you've learned, turn by turn as before. When you have a turn dialed in, you'll know it.
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Above
all, have fun and be careful
Keep an eye peeled for control flags at the manned corners and follow the
safety rules and instructions to the letter. When in doubt, play it safe
to race another day. If you're to let faster cars go by, do so the
first time you reach the passing zone with one on your tail. That
way, everyone will have a safer and more enjoyable day.
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[]
URL: http://www.cliffshade.com/350zr/track.asp
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